3-Bolt Auto hub conversion

3-Bolt hubs, they seem to have been designed by NASA and like anything designed by the government they are overly complicated and generally do not work. At least this was my experience in changing these out. The first one took me 4 hours to figure how to take the dammed thing out. These have a reputation of being difficult to service and expensive to convert from. After my first experience I agree. This is why I have created the article, to help those of us that are trying to convert on a budget.

Disassembly
First remove the 3 Torx bolts that hold on the auto hub cap.
	To remove the outer retaining ring it will take some technique and some patients. The way I use is I I take a set of small long needle-nose pliers, stick them behind the ring as far as I can then turn the pliers clockwise. This should scoop the ring out of it's groove and allow you to pry it out. It can take some time but it will come out.
Pull out the outer hub body. exposing the inner hub body.
	Remove the C-ring from the stub axle. This holds the inner hub shims in as well as the inner hub.
Remove the inner hub retaining washer (Note this is grooved with the spines of the stub axle) and the shim behind it.
	Remove the inner hub body with your needle nose plyers.
You are almost down to the nitty gritty. With some sort of pick or the long needle nose pliers pull out the spanner nut lock. You will find it on the inner portion of the nut.
	Now you are ready to remove the spanner nut. If you don't already have it you can purchase a spanner nut socket (ford # T59T-1197-B) that you will never use again. Or you can go the cheap way like I did and just stick a large flathead screwdriver on one of the flats of the nut and rotate the rotor/hub assembly counter clockwise.
Once the spanner nut is out grab your axle nut kit. This is available from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard for $10 each. Note: this is half of the 3-Bolt conversion kit companies like Warn and mile marker sell for $60 and up. All this package is missing is the .68 cent 1 1/4" clip that goes on the end of the stub axle. $60 bucks for $22 dollars worth of parts. That's what I call marketing.
	The axle nut kit contains 3 parts: The outer nut. The lock washer and the inner nut. The inner nut (lower right) has a small nipple on it that will catch on the lock washer.
Assembly
Thread on the inner lock nut ensuring the nipple is facing out. Tighten while rotating the hub to ensure enough attention on the bearings. Tighten using a Dana 44 Axle nut wrench. the one I used was made by K-D and model number is 2467. The offical word on tourquing the axle nuts is this: tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees.
	Install your lock washer. Make sure the nipple is lined up properly with one of the holes. This will lock the inner nut and make sure your bearing does not go loose.
Install the outer axle nut. Tighten outer axle nut to 150 ft. lb. of tourque.
	Install the grooved washer make sure it is installed past the C-Clip groove.
Install the retaining C-Clip in the groove.
	Install your hub lock body into the hub. If you are re-using some older hubs then lube them a little with some 10-40w motor oil.
Install the outer hub retaining clip as well as the stub shaft retaining clip. 1 & 3/16" clip was used in this example. I would prefer you use a 1 & 1/4" clip as this one was very tight.
	Install the lockout dial. It is a good idea to put a dab of blue locktite on the bolt threads to ensure none of them come loose.
Test the hub by locking it and rotating the Hub assembly. Look behind it and make sure your axle shafts are rotating as well. At this point you will no longer have to wonder if you are truly in 4WD and you can cycle your transfer case without putting un-needed stress on your front drive train.