Many folks who have lifted their trucks have opted
to use blocks instead of springs in the rear of their 4x4 when lifting
it. While blocks are the cheapest solution they are far from the best
option. Vibrations, axle wrap, spring breakage and bad pinion angle
are just a few of the side effects caused by the use of lift blocks.
In the past there has been one choice to make when you decided to pull
out your lift blocks and turn them into wheel chocks or slingshot ammo
for your annoying neighbors. This choice was lift springs. But at upwards
of $500 a pair this option was in many cases was out of reach. There
was another option available but while it could be cheap it was NOT
simple. This option was a shackle flip. By flipping your original shackle
brackets you could attain a 4” lift. But this procedure was quite
involved and sometimes required the replacement of both brackets and
the drilling of extra holes in your frame not exactly the easiest procedure
to accomplish. Plus given the design of the original hardware the factory
shackle bracket when inverted, became unpredictable in strength.
While springs are still expensive and shackle flips using the factory
hardware is still cheap, a product has arrived on the market that meets
both halfway. This is the well-engineered exceedingly strong shackle
flip bracket available from Sky-Manufacturing.
First, look for anything that might
interfere with your installation, this includes any custom sliders,
wheel well modifications or anything that may interact with the
spring or the shackle.
For me, this ended up being the exhaust tip. It
bent right at where the spring connected to the shackle. Remember,
look for anything that may get into the way of any moving parts.
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Next start by removing your blocks.
Pretty much an unbolt, pop out and bolt back in operation. You
will need to use the factory wedge blocks to attain proper drive
line angle. |
Once the blocks are off dismount
the shackle from the factory shackle bracket. It is also a good
idea to loosen the bolt holding the shackle to the spring. This
will allow the bracket to be easily moved in which ever post ion
you need it to be. |
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Start your grinding of the rivets. Chiseling these things off
can work but it will be a LONG operation. Your best bet is to
get yourself a nice 4" angle grinder and go to town. Once
you get the rivets ground flat you can use a punch and a hammer
to punch them in and remove the bracket. Another method is to
use a small sledge to whack on the bracket until it falls off.
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Line up your shackle brackets
with the holes in the frame. Insure you aren't going to get any
interference from the bumper bracket or anything else. |
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Provide clearance for those items that will
interfere with the mounting of the bracket. For me it was the
rear bumper bracket so a notch was cut out of the bracket to insure
clearance. Grind off the offending metal until it all lines up.
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Once the holes are all lined up you will now
need to drop the gas tank and depending on the size of your hands
the rear bumper will need to be removed. This is so you can properly
tighten up the mounting bolts. |
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Before mounting the brackets
you will need to drill out the holes with a 1/2" drill. Otherwise
the bolts will not go through the frame. |
Mount the brackets. If you have a welder handy
tack the bolts to the frame. this will help with any future modifications
regarding this bracket. |
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Replace the bumper and gas tank
then mount the shackle to the bracket. Make sure you re-torque
the bolts on the springs. You are now done. |
